guanxuan

Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go - T.S. Eliot

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Passu

Took a boat next across the Karakoram Highway to Passu.

Yes, a boat on the Karakoram Highway.

A short distance after Karimabad to Hussain, rocks somehow blocked the flow of the river and create a massive lake, spanning about 30+km wide.


The blockage at the end of the lake


An hour trek to get to the lake. Hell it was sure hard no joke about this


The beautiful disaster
















According to the locals, the lake was formed months ago but there was nothing the government could do about it.

As a result, many villages vanished under the lake.

Hearsay that the government promised that when winter comes and the lake freezes up, they will blow up the ice with explosives to clear the lake. Believed it will be an explosion for a good cause here.


















As for now, people wanting to get across would have to use the boats meant for ferrying cilvilians free of charge for them to cross to and fro the lake.

However, it was raining on that day when we arrived at the lake and the government boats were not operating. There were, however, private boats that wanted to charge 3000 rupees from each of us, but still free for the locals. So no no. No way were we gonna pay. It was just extortion basically. Damn

And so we wait. Wait. And waited. Waited from 11am. With Roman the Swiss and Olivier from France. Ended up playing serveral rounds of French-styled Bridge taught by Olivier. The weather was getting better and so we were just hoping for the government boats to come.

But it never did came.

What really pissed us off was that the boats rather sailed empty than to take us for a more reasonable amount as to something like the locals would have to pay, but note here that locals get to take it for free. They were not open to negotiations at all. damn damn

Time past quickly and by 6pm, we were getting really nervous because the boats stopped sailing when night falls.

In the end we had to ask a local Pakistani to help negotiate with the boatman for them to take us across at 500 rupees each. And still the locals which took the same boat with us need not pay anything. damn damn damn

When we finally got across, took a man’s jeep to his hotel, Batura Hotel, which had sucky service and rooms. HIGHLY NOT recommended.

Although there were many nice treks in this area, we were too overwhelmed and tired to want to attempt any at this point.
Though i certainly enjoyed the culture and experience, coupled with the fantastic and untouched nature of the place, I was so freaking starving everyday I just wanted to get to China because i needed food. Real food. Not anymore bread, nor lentils and vegetables. Im sorry if i sound like a brat here i sincerely and seriously don't mean to, but you must understand i hadn't eaten enough for almost 3 weeks, not to mention going to bed on an empty stomach most of the time we were there due to the food shortage situation on the disastrous Karakoram Highway. But it was certainly an almost surreal yet physically and spiritually enriching and testing experience to be in the midst of all these and i do appreciate all that i went through.

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