Passu

Took a boat next across the Karakoram Highway to Passu.

Yes, a boat on the Karakoram Highway.

A short distance after Karimabad to Hussain, rocks somehow blocked the flow of the river and create a massive lake, spanning about 30+km wide.

The blockage at the end of the lake



An hour trek to get to the lake. Hell it was sure hard no joke about this



The beautiful disaster

According to the locals, the lake was formed months ago but there was nothing the government could do about it.

As a result, many villages vanished under the lake.

Hearsay that the government promised that when winter comes and the lake freezes up, they will blow up the ice with explosives to clear the lake. Believed it will be an explosion for a good cause here.

As for now, people wanting to get across would have to use the boats meant for ferrying cilvilians free of charge for them to cross to and fro the lake.

However, it was raining on that day when we arrived at the lake and the government boats were not operating. There were, however, private boats that wanted to charge 3000 rupees from each of us, but still free for the locals. So no no. No way were we gonna pay. It was just extortion basically. Damn

And so we wait. Wait. And waited. Waited from 11am. With Roman the Swiss and Olivier from France. Ended up playing serveral rounds of French-styled Bridge taught by Olivier. The weather was getting better and so we were just hoping for the government boats to come.

But it never did came.

What really pissed us off was that the boats rather sailed empty than to take us for a more reasonable amount as to something like the locals would have to pay, but note here that locals get to take it for free. They were not open to negotiations at all. damn damn

Time past quickly and by 6pm, we were getting really nervous because the boats stopped sailing when night falls.

In the end we had to ask a local Pakistani to help negotiate with the boatman for them to take us across at 500 rupees each. And still the locals which took the same boat with us need not pay anything. damn damn damn

When we finally got across, took a man’s jeep to his hotel, Batura Hotel, which had sucky service and rooms. HIGHLY NOT recommended.

Although there were many nice treks in this area, we were too overwhelmed and tired to want to attempt any at this point.

Though i certainly enjoyed the culture and experience, coupled with the fantastic and untouched nature of the place, I was so freaking starving everyday I just wanted to get to China because i needed food. Real food. Not anymore bread, nor lentils and vegetables. Im sorry if i sound like a brat here i sincerely and seriously don't mean to, but you must understand i hadn't eaten enough for almost 3 weeks, not to mention going to bed on an empty stomach most of the time we were there due to the food shortage situation on the disastrous Karakoram Highway. But it was certainly an almost surreal yet physically and spiritually enriching and testing experience to be in the midst of all these and i do appreciate all that i went through.

Karimabad

Just as we thought that we could finally take a vehicle all the way to Karimabad from Gilgit, the road which was just fixed just a few days ago collapsed again. I believed at this point, i was jinxed or something.

No vehicles were going anywhere, due to the severe petrol shortage. Waited for about 1.5 hours before a Suzuki agreed to squeeze 10 person inside with 3 standing at the back for the first 40km journey.

We had to get off the vehicle at one point due to the fact that the newly-repaired road was crumbling and giving way to the heavy flash floods. But fortunately it was just a few hundred metres walk to the other side.

The rushing river destroyed the newly-repaired road within a span of few days.

We had to take another vehicle for the remaining 45km (100 rupees), but the vehicle had to stop at Aliabad due to another landslide again. Had to then take a car at 60 rupees per person (a complete rip-off) to Karimabad, which was only 7km away.

A flat on the way to Karimabad

Apple trees aplenty in the small town of Karimabad

Routine power cut

At more than 2400m high, Karimabad was really cold. This town has not seen any electricity for weeks, coupled with the frequent power cut or so i recall there wasnt power 100% of the time we were there plus the brownish running water and with the rainfall throughout the day, it was quite a cold and dreadful place. Guess what this equates to. No shower again! Oh well :x

Approached the guide from the guesthouse for a trek to Rush Pahri, but he recommended doing the trek only when the weather is better. And it didn't seemed like the weather will turn for the better any time we were there. And coupled with the limited days we had left with our visa because of all the broken roads issues, it was tough or almost impossible to fit in a 4-5 day trek without overstaying it.

It was easily one of the biggest regret of the trip  not able to do the trek.

Gilgit

Gilgit is the biggest settlement after Rawalpindi on the Karakoram Highway, and it even has an airport. Although it is slowly and gradually becoming a city, the basic public services such as electricity and water haven’t quite kept up pace with the growth.

Stayed in Madina Guesthouse, probably the most well known accommodation in Gilgit. The room was clean and most importantly, there was hot water running at stipulated timings. Hot water was something that was hard to come by throughout travels in Pakistan.

Lets just say that i havent showered since Mansehra.

Its rest and recuperation time at this point, both physically and mentally after all the trekking and issues with the broken roads constantly tugging at the back of our mind everyday. And according to what we heard, the road from Gilgit all the way up to China was supposed to be repaired.

The little garden in the hotel has had a nice and relaxing atmosphere, although the food was a little expensive. But consider it a nice retreat from all the road horror. 

We also overheard many conversations of fellow travellers, many of whom had got flights to catch in Rawalpindi or treks that they have signed up for, but were stucked there due to the situation of the road.

They were rather surprised when they learnt that we had made it through coming south of the highway. Knowing that it was possible to cross the Karakoram Highway like how we did, many decided to leave the very next day.

The hotel manager must have hated us hahahaha

Due to the broken roads, food supply was real limited and finding meat was as hard as finding women on the street.

The Green Dragon Chinese Restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet is a no-go; the portion is very big but the taste is certainly not Chinese. We were greatly disappointed because we were so craving for some chinese food or it didnt even have to be chinese food, just meat would be good but it was all not good.

After staying for two nights, we continued on to Karimabad, looking forward to a possibility of a 4-day guided trek.

Gilgit town

Surrounded by mountains

Fairy Meadows

It's a tough ascent from Fairy Point to Fairy Meadows. The distance is just 5.5km, but ascending at 700m. Although the people at Fairy Point told us it was just going to take 2.5 hours at a really leisure pace, we took about 5 hours to arrive at our destination, totally exhausted. The book said the same thing as well, but it was only later that we found out it was without any load.

View of the Rakaposhi mountain



  

The trail is pretty straight forward, think anyone can trek up to Fairy Meadows without hiring a guide.

Pine trees and fir flourish in this valley, providing a welcoming shade.

Fairy Meadows

Sunset by Nanga Parbat

Fairy Point

The whole Karakoram Highway was severely damaged and there didn't seemed to be any repair works going on. Hence, all public transportation had ceased operating.

From Chilas, we couldn’t find any vehicles that were going to Raikot Bridge (40km away), the point where we could then trek up to Fairy Meadows.

After checking out from the Grace Continental Hotel (500 rupees per night) at noon, waited by the roadside for about 7 hours and all the vehicles we halted were travelling no further than 5km ahead.

Unless we pay them to do so.

The asking price was often ridiculous; they were asking for 3000 rupees when a seat on a public van is only 70 rupees.

We were so damned.

Chilas Town while waiting for transport

Were getting desperate and demoralised. Just when we were about to give up and decide to pay the next passing vehicle to Raikot Bridge, Allah responded.

The last van that we managed to stop was going towards Gilgit (100km away) and would be passing by Raikot Bridge! It cost us 300 rupees each and we didn’t even bothered to bargain anymore, which would have been 150rupees if we did.

But we don’t really care anymore cos it was already getting dark and we just wanted to get out of there.

After about an hour, finally arrived at Raikot Bridge. From there, the trek up to the first rest point called Fairy Point is only 15km, but at 1400m ascent of height !

Took a jeep up to Fairy Point which cost 3000 rupees 2 ways. 1400m ascent with a 20kg backpack is no joke doing it in Pakistan in the middle of the night. It was just too much so we took the ride.

The road up was really scary. The jeep consistently inches its way towards the cliff with heart-stopping drop offs. We were really grabbing the handle bar through out the 1 hour long ride. haha

There were a few cottage houses up at Fairy Point, paid 700 rupees for one night, plus some instant noodles and macaroni for 140 rupees as we were starving from all the waiting earlier on in the day plus the temperature was really low at that high an altitude that i think i couldnt do without any food haha 

And then it was bedtime for the following day trek up to Fairy Meadows.

Cozy cottage

Chilas

The journey from Besham to Chilas is literally a journey in itself.

I finally had the chance to put on my trek shoes which has been taking up quite a bit of space in my pack.

The road immediately after Besham was non-existant. We were only into the start of the journey but we had to walk through mud paths and water already.

Then there were the vans at the other side of the road waiting to pick passengers up but they often charged a few times more than usual for us travellers. Taking advantage of the situation to earn more money is totally uncool, but given the situation, we could only pay.

After only a few kilometres, we had to alight from the vehicle as the road was blocked again.

The damned drivers waiting after the landslide were charging us 300 rupees, but only 30 rupees for the locals. We decided to walk instead, as with some other locals who refused to pay the 30rupees too. It's a 2km walk.
I can walk.

Marijuana grass a common sight

Rows of trucks sighted stucked between broken roads. Stenches of rotten food from the trucks were already filling the air.

Though what came next at the end of this road was really exciting.

We had to take a cable crossing constructed by the locals to cross the Indus River!

There was actually two cable crossings, but the higher one was almost empty as it looked more intimidating with the box sagging to one side, not to mention it was a lot higher. Most people were queueing to take the one just slightly above the river instead. You can see from the picture above the queue forming at the backdrop. Took the higher one cos it was too much effort to trek all the way down the cliff. It was equally dangerous to climb down the cliff as well.

Sven, the German

Long queue to take the 'ride'

The cable pulley was set up by the local villagers to allow people to cross the river. It looked really dangerous with the box assembled using just wooden planks nailed together.

Allah bless us.

Oh dear. Not another one.

A shorter cable ride. But the guys were collecting 10 rupees for each ride across

More roads washed away by the river.